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Osaka is simple until you board a Nozomi with a JR Pass and pay twice. Check the train name.

JR Pass and Nozomi

The JR Pass does not cover Nozomi. Use Hikari or Sakura between Kyoto, Osaka, and Hiroshima. Point-to-point tickets if the pass no longer pays for itself after the 2023 price rise.

Cash on the street

Stalls and small okonomiyaki counters still want yen. ATMs at 7-Eleven. Suica works in many chain shops.

Namba or Umeda

Namba for walking to Dotonbori. Umeda for Shin-Osaka connections. Switching hotels for one night wastes the trip.

Eat standing, then sit

Takoyaki is a stall. A proper okonomiyaki counter is a sit-down. Do not eat while walking — the rule still holds off the festival exceptions.

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