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Mornings belong to the lanes. Afternoons to the water. Nights only if you want them. Mykonos is two islands in one day: a Cycladic village at 9am and a cosmopolitan resort after midnight.

Walk to the windmills

Kato Mili above the sea is the postcard row of white mills. Go early or at golden hour; cruise-day midday is the crush. The walk from town is short. You do not need a tour.

Little Venice

Balconies over the water, best before cocktail hour. Pair it with a wander inland through Chora, not a second sunset scrum. Tables on the water book out in August; a drink standing up still catches the light.

A beach day

Ornos and Agios Ioannis are easier than Super Paradise if you want swimming more than a club. Paradise and Super Paradise are the famous names — loud, fashionable, and expensive in peak season. One bay is enough; you do not need five clubs to have been to Mykonos.

Chora after the tenders leave

The maze of lanes is the island’s real centre. Churches, small squares, and a working town underneath the boutique layer. Mornings are for getting lost. Afternoons can wait for the beach bus.

Delos, if you have a spare morning

The archaeological island of Delos sits a short boat ride away — a UNESCO sanctuary, not a beach. It is windy, exposed, and extraordinary if you care about ruins. Take water and a hat. Combine with Mykonos rather than treating it as a separate holiday.

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