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Sleep away from the piazza. Day-walk San Marco at opening. The islands are a separate day.

San Marco

Basilica, palace, piazza. Dawn or evening. Midday is a crush.

Dorsoduro and Cannaregio

The sestieri for eating and staying. Accademia and the Zattere walk in Dorsoduro; Jewish Ghetto and bacari in Cannaregio.

Rialto market

Morning fish. Closed by afternoon. A neighbourhood hour, not a souvenir strip.

The lagoon islands

Murano, Burano, Torcello. One vaporetto day. Do not squeeze them into a San Marco morning.

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